Sunday, December 30, 2007

Final thoughts

Here are a few final videos we put together.

Jon eating McDonalds....



And our farewell to the land of the rising sun...

Friday, December 28, 2007

Alone in the city

I'm alone for the first time in two weeks....it feels a bit odd.

Jon is off doing some sightseeing while I hunker down in the hotel with a case of the "my body wants to be home and is making life difficult" or possibly a bug of some sort. The past three days I've been a little off with bouts of nausea and lightheadedness, with a side order of craving french fries. The nausea/wooziness is usually precipitated by some overly hot event. Like sleeping in our ridiculously warm hotel room (it was particularly bad a few nights ago) or going to the movie yesterday or walking through a department store today. I get hot and queasy and then the feeling doesn't go away. I tried to go out this morning but the department store did me in and I decided to come back to the room and nap. At least we are almost headed home and this little bug/whatever didn't hit in the middle of the trip.

I'm not sure what Jon decided to go do. We were headed for a ropeway up to a national forest area when I decided to pack it in.

This may be the last post from Japan....oh wait, no. Jon did a little video for you all last night that I think we'll post later. But the trip is coming to an end.

Overall I really loved Japan. 14 days was long...I think 10 would have been perfect...but other than that I have no complaints. GREAT food (aside from the crab gut intestine sushi I ate and the egg and margarine sandwich Jon had). Nice people. Beautiful temples and shrines. I would come back for sure.

Sticker shock

Everyone says Japan is soooo expensive. For the most part, however, we've found that if you make a conscious effort to keep cost in mind you can spend about as much money on things as you would back home. Our lunches have been about 20000 - 24000 yen, or about $20-24. Not too bad. Dinners have been about $32. We had a couple of fancy dinners out, like on Christmas Eve, but we've stuck to noodle houses and tempura shops in general.

Our first real sticker shock came today, though, when we went to the movie. One adult ticket is the equivalent of $18. ONE person! That is out of control. For two adult movie tickets, a small popcorn and a chocolate churro (Jon was all about the chocolate churro) we spent $40. I was really surprised by that. It is the first time something we've done or purchased in Japan has been significantly more than it would be back home. Yowza.


Today was a pretty relaxing day. Walking around Kobe, eating yummy (and perfectly reasonably priced) lunch in Chinatown, and then to the movie. It rained all day so it was a good plan. Tomorrow is a looking to be about the same. Then back to Tokyo and home.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Kobe and Himeji


Today we went from Kyoto to Kobe on the local train. Since we were at the hotel a few hours before check in, we decided to go to the big historical attraction in the area, the Himeji castle. Back to the local train for a 30 minute ride to Himeji. This area (Himeji, Kobe, Osaka, etc) was almost completely destroyed by air raids in WWII. Almost nothing historical remains, except this HUGE castle. It is pretty cool.

Some pictures:


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Oh, there were a lot of stairs....but we made it to the top!
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Yay, the view from the top!
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While on the castle grounds there were a few important rules. Rule #1:

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Rule #2:

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Now, why I think this picture is so funny, is that it isn't your typical "no eating/drinking/smoking" with the cigarette and soft drink and burger. Most of the signs were like those. No, this one is No smoking a pipe, No eating squid balls, and No drinking sake!

Today we are going to Osaka, although my stomach is pretty upset this morning so I may have to skip it. Jon is getting tattooed, so it's not like we are seeing the sights. I hope I can go.

I'm getting a little more homesick these past few days. Not homesick so much as dogsick. I miss my puppies. Carol is watching them and she sends little email updates and photos. Sophie has even started to get along with her cat! It's amazing. I'm glad they are doing well.

And I hope you all are doing well, too!

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Merry Christmas in Kyoto

Merry Christmas everyone! Our Christmas is almost over, but I think it is just starting over there. I'm not so sure on the time differences, though. It's very confusing.

Christmas isn't really celebrated here. Some kids get presents and some stores put up signs, but that is about it. The Christmas traditions here are more like Valentine's Day, almost. Christmas eve is a night for young lovers to go out to a nice dinner and then on Christmas day people eat Christmas cake with strawberries. We did both, having a really fancy Chinese dinner last night, and really good strawberry cake today!

We are leaving Kyoto tomorrow and I have to say I am sad to leave. Kyoto is a very historic city with shrines and temples galore. I'll post a smattering of photos and videos below, but they won't really capture the beauty of all the places we've seen.



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Highlights: Shopping at the flea market, the temple of 1,001 Buddhas, and Yasaka Shrine in the Gion. Yasaka is the first shrine we went to, and we saw it first in the rain. It was nice because we were some of the only people there. The next morning we walked through it again and it was quite lovely. The temple of 1,001 Buddhas (Sanjusangendo hall) was really interesting. There were sculptures of the 28 guardians of Buddha (I think) with informational signs at each one. It was interesting to see how Indian Buddhism and Chinese Buddhism influenced Japanese Buddhism through the different names of the guardians. There were also the 1,000 other statues along with the giant golden Buddha. Pretty impressive. We weren't allowed to take photographs, but we found a few pictures online that I think we can post.


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This morning we found a HUGE flea market at a nearby Shinto shrine (we actually read about it before coming to Japan and happened upon it by luck). We were able to get some really cool stuff. Jon got a Haori (short kimono coat thing) to tattoo in, a cool hat and rice straw rope. We also found some really cool ceramic foo dogs that we are going to try to bring back. Kyoto really has been a shopping mecca. The flea market was cool because it was all locals. We got fried stuff on a stick (I had a spiral potato thing, Jon had squid balls), shopped around, found deals, etc. It was fun.


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Another thing we did in Kyoto was group tours set up through our travel agent. Jon and I both agree we aren't big fans of the guided tour. We get rushed through really amazing places that deserve far more than the 45 minutes we are alotted. Like the golden pavillion or shogun castle. One tour I liked, even though it was a bit rushed, was a trip to Nara. About 1 hour by bus, Nara was an ancient capital of Japan and is full of really old stuff. The largest wooden structure in the world, for example. Or the oldest wooden structure. Or the largest bronze Buddha in the world. Very historic. It is also home to the Nara deer park, which is full if miniature deer that demand cookies from you and try to eat your clothes if you don't deliver. It was fun.





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Tomorrow we leave Kyoto and head to Kobe. We'll be there for about four days and will use it as a home base to go elsewhere. Himeji castle, Osaka, and someplace else I can't remember. Jon is getting tattooed in Osaka the day after tomorrow. Then it's back to Tokyo and home on new year's eve. I'll be sad to leave Japan, but glad to be headed home.

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Some musings and observations:

1. The Japanese love things hot. The food comes to you so piping hot that it is impossible (for me) to eat for a good 10 minutes. It is ridiculously hot. The steamy washcloths they bring you before your meal are scalding hot. The toilet seats are heated. The buses and trains and subways and overly heated. Everyone walks around in bulky coats when it isn't that cold. Our hotel is really warm. Everything everywhere is hot.

2. Japanese TV is surreal...crazy...weird. There are no evening scripted dramas or comedys. From what I can tell, the same 12 people are on every show (and no it is not that I can't tell the people apart) and they sit around in large groups watching videos and then talking about them. There are shows where people watch commercials and than talk about them. There are shows where people read the newspaper, and then talk about them. It's like the entire evening TV block on all channels is a weird version of Regis and Kelly, but with 12 people. Strange infomercials, something Jon and I like to call JapanBall (it looks like a cross between field hockey, rugby and basketball)...it is so different than America.

3. It has been said before, but it is really true, that everything runs on time. The buses, subways, trains, tours--everything. Nothing is late, nothing breaks down. It is amazing.

4. Convenience is paramount at a lot of places. The bus stops have little windows to tell you how many stops away your bus is. The crosswalks and subways and buses all have little chime songs to help you navigate. Like the vending machine lunch chooser restaurant places we ate at in Osaka.



Also, there are vending machines everywhere, selling everything.

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Jack Black
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I think this grape looks like the devil...
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Batteries
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Sunday, December 23, 2007

Kyoto and the Ryokan

Today we traveled from Miyajima to Kyoto.


We left Miyajima in the pouring rain and arrived in Kyoto in the pouring rain. Since we had no idea where our hotel was, we paid the $12 to take a cab and headed off. Luckily we did, because this hotel is located down crazy narrow streets without proper signage. Tonight we are staying at a traditional Japanese Inn, or Ryokan. You take off your shoes when you arrive, sit on the floor, sleep on a futon, etc. It has a very lovely garden outside that I hope to explore more once it stops raining.


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When we arrived at the Ryokan it wasn't quite check in time yet so we dropped off our bags and headed out. Turns out we are in the Gion district, the old style area with geishas and kabuki theaters and old houses. It is really quite pretty. We headed in the only direction we knew: toward the major shopping road that our cab had taken us down originally. We found a lot of great shops peddling everything from traditional kimonos to ceramic happy money cats to handmade christmas ornaments. Jon and I have been on the mission to find pretty fabrics as we go around Japan so we can make a quilt when we get home. It has been pretty easy since everywhere you go you can buy inexpensive cotton handkerchiefs, and they are usually really pretty. We were on the lookout for gifts for a few particular people, but alas, we mostly bought things for ourselves. :) This stop has really been our first buying stuff stop. But the wares in Kyoto are just too pretty.

As it got darker and colder and wetter, we set out for a big temple at the end of the shopping district. I don't know the name because I can't find our guidebook right now, but it was nice. Then back to the Ryokan for a traditional dinner in our room and night on the futons.


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Which, let me just say, are not that comfortable. I am such an American. But really, I want a bed. Heck, I want a chair. Instead, I am sitting on the ground, trying to use the beanbag pillow thing for back support, trying not to smash into the shoji screens on all sides of me. I'm locked in a paper box of back pain. It is an experience, but not one I am enjoying all that much. The shoji screens are paper, yes, so you can hear everything going on in the hallway. And that means everyone can hear everything going on in my room, which I am not all that comfortable with. Do they want to hear the conversation we just had about heated toilet seats and mechanical bidets? Probably not. Anyway, tomorrow we head to a western style hotel with, presumably, a bed. Maybe two beds, but definitely a bed. Possibly an internet connection as well. And maybe some Diet Coke.

Don't get me wrong, I am really enjoying this trip to Japan. It is interesting and cultural and quiet. Jon and I are enjoying the time alone together. I would certainly come back again. But, then, I am also missing certain things about home. Right now in particular, the overabundance of chairs and sound proof walls. But I miss the dogs a lot, and I miss restrooms that don't smell of urine, and fountain sodas. I miss knowing where I am going. Jon has said many times that he could eat like we are eating in Japan every day forever. Fish and rice and miso and tea. Me, not so much. Maybe I could eat dinner like this every day, maybe even lunch, because I do love the fish and rice and miso and tea. But breakfast...I want an American breakfast. Cereal or pancakes or crispy bacon. The "western style" breakfast you can get here at some of the bigger hotel buffets is not really that great. I've been sticking with the traditional stuff. But the other day we walked by a Denny's (yes, a Denny's) and I started to dream of a big stack of pancakes just a little bit.

But, like I said, I'm enjoying this trip a lot. It is fun to see Jon so excited. I think he would move to Japan if he could. He feels at home here, and that is cool.