We left Miyajima in the pouring rain and arrived in Kyoto in the pouring rain. Since we had no idea where our hotel was, we paid the $12 to take a cab and headed off. Luckily we did, because this hotel is located down crazy narrow streets without proper signage. Tonight we are staying at a traditional Japanese Inn, or Ryokan. You take off your shoes when you arrive, sit on the floor, sleep on a futon, etc. It has a very lovely garden outside that I hope to explore more once it stops raining.
When we arrived at the Ryokan it wasn't quite check in time yet so we dropped off our bags and headed out. Turns out we are in the Gion district, the old style area with geishas and kabuki theaters and old houses. It is really quite pretty. We headed in the only direction we knew: toward the major shopping road that our cab had taken us down originally. We found a lot of great shops peddling everything from traditional kimonos to ceramic happy money cats to handmade christmas ornaments. Jon and I have been on the mission to find pretty fabrics as we go around Japan so we can make a quilt when we get home. It has been pretty easy since everywhere you go you can buy inexpensive cotton handkerchiefs, and they are usually really pretty. We were on the lookout for gifts for a few particular people, but alas, we mostly bought things for ourselves. :) This stop has really been our first buying stuff stop. But the wares in Kyoto are just too pretty.
As it got darker and colder and wetter, we set out for a big temple at the end of the shopping district. I don't know the name because I can't find our guidebook right now, but it was nice. Then back to the Ryokan for a traditional dinner in our room and night on the futons.
Which, let me just say, are not that comfortable. I am such an American. But really, I want a bed. Heck, I want a chair. Instead, I am sitting on the ground, trying to use the beanbag pillow thing for back support, trying not to smash into the shoji screens on all sides of me. I'm locked in a paper box of back pain. It is an experience, but not one I am enjoying all that much. The shoji screens are paper, yes, so you can hear everything going on in the hallway. And that means everyone can hear everything going on in my room, which I am not all that comfortable with. Do they want to hear the conversation we just had about heated toilet seats and mechanical bidets? Probably not. Anyway, tomorrow we head to a western style hotel with, presumably, a bed. Maybe two beds, but definitely a bed. Possibly an internet connection as well. And maybe some Diet Coke.
Don't get me wrong, I am really enjoying this trip to Japan. It is interesting and cultural and quiet. Jon and I are enjoying the time alone together. I would certainly come back again. But, then, I am also missing certain things about home. Right now in particular, the overabundance of chairs and sound proof walls. But I miss the dogs a lot, and I miss restrooms that don't smell of urine, and fountain sodas. I miss knowing where I am going. Jon has said many times that he could eat like we are eating in Japan every day forever. Fish and rice and miso and tea. Me, not so much. Maybe I could eat dinner like this every day, maybe even lunch, because I do love the fish and rice and miso and tea. But breakfast...I want an American breakfast. Cereal or pancakes or crispy bacon. The "western style" breakfast you can get here at some of the bigger hotel buffets is not really that great. I've been sticking with the traditional stuff. But the other day we walked by a Denny's (yes, a Denny's) and I started to dream of a big stack of pancakes just a little bit.
But, like I said, I'm enjoying this trip a lot. It is fun to see Jon so excited. I think he would move to Japan if he could. He feels at home here, and that is cool.
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